This Unassuming Ingredient Is a Warrior Against Hormonal Acne

Of all the blemish-busting ingredients I’ve become acquainted with through years of rigorous dermatological research – salicylic acid, glycolic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and retinoids – I’ve never encountered azelaic acid. Until now, that is. So if you’ve never heard of it, you’re not alone.
What on earth is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that is naturally derived from grains such as barley and wheat. It’s a gentle but potent ingredient that has recently become available in the market and prescriptions were previously required for purchase, which is why it hasn’t been much of a buzzworthy ingredient before. Often touted as a solution for rosacea-prone skin, azelaic acid is known to greatly reduce inflammation, making it a perfect treatment for sensitive skin types. If your skin is particularly reactive towards common acne fighters, then you should definitely consider this friendlier alternative.
How does it work?
It’s been shown to fight against p. Acnes, the bacteria that’s responsible for creating breakouts. Similar to benzoyl peroxide, it works well against cystic acne as it dives deep into the pores to tackle the onslaught of acne-causing bacteria, thereby inhibiting the growth of blemishes to keep your skin clear. Just like an exfoliating acid, azelaic acid is a natural exfoliator that works to reduce the buildup of dead skin cells, smoothing out the complexion as it prevents annoying whiteheads and blackheads from forming.
That’s not all. This unassuming superhero also inhibits excess production of melanin, so it’s extra helpful in preventing and lightening those dreaded acne scars. Let’s recap: it diminishes acne-cause bacteria, exfoliates for healthier skin cells, AND reduces scarring. We’ve got a triple-threat here, guys.
How often should I use it?
Like other topical blemish treatments, you’ll want to give your skin some time to get used to the ingredient. Start off by using it on alternate evenings before you use it daily. Yes, azelaic acid is a known to be a gentle ingredient, but try not to use it during the day as it has exfoliating properties that’ll leave your skin a little more sensitive to light, and if sunscreen isn’t a part of your daily routine, do your complexion another favour and start shielding it from the sun.
With azelaic acid, it’s best to keep an eye on how your skin responds to it, so you can adjust your frequency accordingly. You can use it right after your toner, or you can mix it in with your moisturiser to prevent any possible chance of irritation. And as usual, if you notice any excessive flaking or feel an uncomfortable burning sensation, stop using the product.
Ready to give azelaic acid a shot? Have a look at our top picks.

5 the ordinary azelaic
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
$18, available from theordinary.com and zestbeauty.com
 
1 paulas choice azelaic
Paula’s Choice Clear Daily Skin Clearing Treatment with Azelaic Acid
$66, available from lookfantastic.com.sg 
 
4 rodial super acids
Rodial Super Acids Daily Azelaic Acid Serum
US$105, available from skinstore.com
 
3 benton azelaic (1)
Benton Snail Bee High Content Lotion
$24.74, available from iHerb.com
 
2 azelique night cream
Azelique Age Refining Night Cream with Azelaic Acid
$27.49, available from iHerb.com

Main image: @deciem