Managing acne, particularly the cystic variety caused by hormones, can be quite an insufferable ordeal. Couple that with various other allergies and sensitivities, and you’ve got skin that’s a real pain to deal with. I’ve been there – in fact, I am still there, so you have my utmost sympathy. Curating an effective skincare routine is akin to conducting a science experiment, but after nearly a decade of playing chemist, I feel like I’ve assembled quite the reliable team of products to help my skin out.
In addition to using lightweight, fragrance-free formulas and salicylic acid treatments, facial oils have also made a remarkable difference in my turbulent complexion. Now, we tend to think of oils as the archenemy of clear skin, but what I’ve seen from my trials prove otherwise. Not all facial oils are created equal, though. A key factor that makes some oils work particularly well on breakout-prone skin is the ratio of linoleic acid to oleic acid in its chemical composition.
What the hell are linoleic acid and oleic acid?
Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid that’s also known as omega-9 fatty acid. Linoleic acid, on the other hand, is an unsaturated fatty acid often referred to as an omega-6 fatty acid. Stay with me. According to a medical study, patients who suffered from acne were found to have low levels of linoleic acid in the surface of their skin lipids.
What happens when skin is deficient in linoleic acid?
When our skin lacks linoleic acid, the sebum produced sort of coagulates and becomes tacky, and that sticky substance clogs up pores, transforming the area into an ideal breeding ground for breakouts. This is why we need to supplement our skin with oils that are rich in linoleic acid.
Of course, there’s no one-size-fits-all remedy when it comes to something as subjective as skin, so even if a facial oil blend is high in linoleic acid, doesn’t mean it’s going to perform miracles. Keep in mind that stress, diet, genetics (oh I KNOW it’s frustrating), and hormonal imbalance are a few major factors of acne too. Until you’ve narrowed down to the root cause of your breakouts, here are 5 facial oils that seek to soothe, strengthen, and restore balance to your complexion.
Fresh Seaberry Moisturizing Face Oil
Grapeseed oil comes highly recommended for regulating your natural oil production, and Fresh’s Seaberry Face Oil has it. It’s mixed with several other lightweight oils such as sea buckthorn, cranberry seed, camellia seed, and sweet almond – all loaded with nourishing omegas and antioxidants to give your skin a quick surge of moisture (yes, oily skin can be dehydrated too). It absorbs quickly and doesn’t leave an uncomfortable, tacky residue behind.
$84, available from Sephora
Herbivore Botanicals Lapis Oil-Balancing Azulene-Infused Facial Oil
This blend features a good amount of coconut oil, which is incredibly surprising since this ingredient is notorious for clogging up pores (it contains way more oleic acid than linoleic). The glowing reviews, however, beg to differ. Perhaps balancing it out with kukui nut oil and jojoba oil creates the perfect formula to suit our troublesome skin needs. It’s also tinted deep blue thanks to the Blue Tansy oil that carries Azulene, a potent anti-inflammatory and antibacterial component that helps reduce redness and clear up congested complexions.
$41 for 8ml, $112 for 50ml; available from Sephora
Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil
Ah, rosehip oil, my love… It’s certainly not the first time I’ve raved about this, and it definitely won’t be the last. Rosehip oil is a light, almost “dry” oil that’s able to balance out acne-prone complexions due to its higher linoleic to oleic acid ratio, and it’s also a NYLON team favourite (okay, so there’s really only two of us). Rich in both vitamin C and retinoic acid, a form of vitamin A, it doesn’t just repair your skin’s epidermal layer – it lightens unsightly acne scars too. An all-round winner in my book. If you’re looking for an affordable option that truly works, pick this one up, stat.
$42, available at Watsons and zalora.sg (pssst, it’s on offer now).
MV Organic Skincare Rose Plus Booster
Under the influence of Emma Watson’s beauty routine, I forked out an exorbitant amount for this luxurious facial oil. If you have sensitive, acne-prone skin like myself, this is undoubtedly one of the best options out there. There’s rosehip oil and jojoba oil to soothe and strengthen the skin’s barrier, as well as an aromatic combination of rose and geranium essential oils. When I used this for the first time, the redness on my cheeks, around my nose, and from the mild breakout I had was visibly reduced, so imagine what happened with just a couple more uses.
£72.00, available on cultbeauty.co.uk
John Masters Organics Pomegranate Facial Nourishing Oil
Pomegranate seed oil doesn’t just contain a higher amount of linoleic acid, there’s also an omega 5 fatty acid present, known as punicic acid. This powerful antioxidant reduces skin inflammation, aids in skin repair, hydrates and prevents moisture loss. Even better, it’s combined with evening primrose oil – another linoleic acid-rich ingredient that helps balance out sebum production, thereby reducing breakouts. If you’re allergic to lavender oil though, make sure you steer clear of this one.
$49, available from budcosmetics.com
Main image: @glossier
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