Just last week on 12 March, fashion icons Maison Margiela and Christian Louboutin launched their first-ever collaborative shoe capsule collection that saw both houses interpret their individual creative languages into two cross-pollinating designs: Maison Margiela by Christian Louboutin, and Christian Louboutin by Maison Margiela.
Composed of three and four shoe styles respectively, the collection was created by John Galliano and Christian Louboutin, who have known each other since the beginning of their careers. Here’s a closer look at the designs.
Maison Margiela by Christian Louboutin
In this collection, the designs focuses on Maison Margiela’s signature Tabi through the curvaceous and feminine form language of Christian Louboutin. Painted with the designer’s signature red sole, the three designs are structured around a new interpretation of the split-toe.
The first is the Bridiela Una Strass, a pump constructed on a new last, and set on a classic Christian Louboutin 100mm heel. It is crafted in mesh with the signature crystal hand-made encrustation of Christian Louboutin, subtly hinting at similar embellishments used in the Maison Margiela 2024 Artisanal Collection.
Loubiella in Lizard Printed Laminated Calf Leather. Image courtesy of Christian Louboutin. Loubiella in Lizard Printed Laminated Calf Leather. Image courtesy of Christian Louboutin. Loubiella in Lizard Printed Laminated Calf Leather. Image courtesy of Christian Louboutin. Loubiella in Lizard Printed Laminated Calf Leather. Image courtesy of Christian Louboutin.
Next, is the Loubiella, a sandal based on Christian Louboutin’s Rosalie silhouette and set on a 100mm stiletto. Echoing the weathered leitmotif of Maison Margiela’s Artisanal Collection in its design, the Loubiella accentuates the arch of the foot while its strap twists asymmetrically across the dorm and around the ankle, leaving the curve of the foot exposed.
The Marlougiela rounds off Christian Louboutin’s creations, as ballerina flats that are sleekly elongated and narrow in shape with highly sculptural lines that amplifies the design of the shoe.
Christian Louboutin by Maison Margiela
This collection re-frames the seductive silhouettes of Christian Louboutin shoes through the inverted and subversive lens of Maison Margiela, using the Maison’s notion of decortiqué — a technique that exposes the essential frame of an item normally hidden from view by cutting out any areas and layers but the seams, boning or closures that hold it together.
The technique is applied to four designs, each painted with the red sole of Christian Louboutin.
Kicking things off is the Bilougiela 25, an elongated, pointed ankle-strap sandal based on Christian Louboutin’s Kate Max last, and set on a 100mm heel. Executed by hand, the decortiqué technique peels the black patent leather off the shoe’s upper surface to reveal the inside of the shoe.
Next is the Martinloula, a pointed pump imbued with the curvaceous faux-cul heel cap that was first created by Christian Louboutin for the Maison Margiela 2024 Artisanal Collection. For this, the leather of the shoe is subtracted into strands that drape across the shoe, revealing the shoe’s construction underneath.
This design expands into Xrismarteen, a knee-length boot set on a 100mm heel where the upper of the boot is left intact while the leather collapses into draped strips along the shaft of the boot to reveal the lining; simulating the tear of paper.
Finally, the Martoubi 25 is a new pointed, elongated white leather pump set on a 100mm heel that features a heel cap daubed in a spontaneous red brushstroke. This detail echoes Maison Margiela’s bianchetto technique, and evokes the smear of red nail varnish, alluding to the story of the Red Sole.
