As a response to the work of American sculptor Lynda Benglis, Dior’s Creative Director Jonathan Anderson connects the art of couture with that of how artists begin the process of their work, using two-dimensional materials that are transformed, through knotting, pleating or moulding, into three-dimensional pieces.
Images courtesy of Dior.
In a similar manner, fabric is given sculptural form and accentuated when worn. Taking this connection as a starting point, Jonathan elaborates on the physical gestures of hand-plissé, knotting and draping, reflecting Lynda’s works through the ateliers’ interpretation with metallic, iridescent, encrusted, or paper-like fabrics.
Jonathan’s research into Lynda led him to uncover the artist’s longstanding relationship with Ahmedabad in Gujarat, India, which turned Indian craft (specifically the 18th century tradition of chintz) into a focus for this collection, with its finely-woven cotton that were typically hand-painted or block-printed.
Images courtesy of Dior.
The bags feature Mother-of-pearl inlays, passementerie and shimmering leathers that echo the garments in the collection.
Here, the Dior Anthology series continues with the Petit Dîner and mini Lady Dior showcasing fragments of 18th century Indian chintz and indiennes sourced from a specialist dealer, alongside floral references that are drawn from the two landscapes, New Mexico and Gujarat, where Lynda has lived and worked.
Joining these bags are four shapes made in collaboration with Lynda, namely the Dior Cigale in metallic plissé, a sculptural Dior Bow, a new Lady Dior, and a Petit Dîner with a Benglis-inspired bow.
Images courtesy of Dior.
To mimic the surfaces and references of Lynda Benglis’ art, the shoes in the collection feature sparkle, sheen and lattice overlay.
Satin colour-block pumps are crafted with elongated square toes, a silhouette that also appears in a variety of styles embroidered with irregular paillettes, micro-sequins and beads, and frothy floral embellishments, while ornaments inspired by Lynda’s Peacock series are seen on three looks in the collection, with one translated onto sheer pumps and the others decorated with pleated metal bows.
Images courtesy of Dior.
On the jewellery front, you’ll see pieces created by artisans in France and India, including Jaipur, Rajasthan.
Mother-of-pearl, rock crystal and carved green onyx are threaded onto tasselled cords, while floral motifs from rare antique Indian textiles are represented in richly hued micromosaics and necklaces of graduated discs simulate terracotta surface effects. Lynda’s Peacock series is also directly interpreted by compositions here with embroidered elements on sterling silver wire, made in Paris.
